compositing dengan adjustment layer di photoshop

Compositing with Photoshop is one part technique and two parts imagination. In the example below, I've created a dark and mysterious scene with a young girl paused in an eerily calm storm. Here's how I made it:

Photoshop Composition
View the finished composition
As you can see, the final result is a compilation of several layers blended together with thematic color correcting. Adjusting the mood of the scene by tweaking the color balance through the use of adjustment layers brings the image together as a cohesive story. Simply sandwiching layers on one another won't produce the same effect and fail at convincing your audience. It all starts with an idea. In this case: a theme of ominous beauty.

Your first order of business would be to scour the stock archives for imagery you have in mind, while in the process, almost certainly developing on your idea with what becomes available. For this tutorial, follow along with the examples I've provided to get an idea of how it all comes together.

We'll start out with this old house resting in a pleasant country setting. The sky isn't as nearly as menacing as it should be, so we can get rid of that with the weapon of your choice, preferably the Pen Tool. Take your time and cut those pixels out with precision. Even the smallest imperfections will stand out. Though for the sake of this tutorial, feel free to skip ahead with the PSDs provided.
Download house.jpg or house.psd
Our background is now ready for a sky -- something you won't have trouble finding. Drop in your clouds and position them as desired. The clouds you choose are a large part of establishing the atmosphere.
Download clouds.jpg
Our subject comes from a talented photographer in DeviantArt's stock photography section, angelcurioso. Again, we'll need to spend some time with the Pen tool, carefully clipping her out of the backdrop. When all looks well, place her above the background layers.
Download girl.jpg or girl.psd
Next we'll add in a few details to add more depth to our composition: Grass for the foreground and a light snow. Grass or foliage can be easily found, but excruciating to extract. Once you've accomplished it however, you'll have it to reuse for future projects. The snow is actually a frame from an After Effects project of mine, produced by a particle plugin. But this can be replicated with a brush tool and varying opacities.
Download grass.psd | snow.jpg
Place these layers on top of your subject. Add a gaussian blur (~2.5) to the grass to fake a depth-of-field effect. Now you have a fitting foreground element that doesn't stand out too much. Since the snow is against a black background, change the blending mode of this layer to Screen.

Your montage of layers is in place. It's time for the fun part: color correcting. We'll be using adjustment layers to fix the overall levels and balance of colors.
Create a new Adjustment Layer
from the bottom of the layers pallette

Start by adding a Channel Mixer adjustment layer. This step is done by eye. Was I did here was flatten out the overall colors by playing with the individual channels. The result should leave you with a less saturated image, ready to colorize.
Finally, we'll be using a Curves adjustment layer to set the mood. Once again this step relies on lots of toying, nudging the reds, greens, and blues until you get the effect you're looking for. As you can see below, I've primarily taken out some blue and added more red for a warm ambience with crushed blacks. These settings are entirely up to you, and vary based on the photos you're using. You can download the settings I used in the Photoshop file below.
Download adjustments.psd
Since these color adjustments are on layers of their own, you're free to go back and experimented with your composition. For a finishing touch, adding a slight vignette will frame everything nicely.
View the finished composition

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membuat kodok menjadi robot chrome

In this tutorial, I'm going to show you some of the steps I took in making this image


There are a number of tricks and techniques people use when making an image of this nature, but I am going to show how I created this image using only the very basic tools. The same principles and process can be used on any animals, even humans, but I'm going to use a frog for my example because why not?
The first thing I did was gathered a few source images.

Finding a great subject source image to start with is one of the most important stages in the whole process. The reason I chose this particular image of a frog was that it was crisp, clean image with an interesting enough perspective, yet still be instantly recognizable as a frog even after we cover him in mechanical parts.
Now that we have our main subject and a few mechanical pieces ready, let's begin mechanicalizing him.

 
I needed to extract the usable parts from my mechanical sources. Using the Lasso Tool, I roughly selected areas from my mechanical sources I figured I could use, and saved these parts into a new document for easy access later.

I tried to select segments of varying shapes, sizes, and texture in order to create a nice library of chrome and mechanical sources for our image
 
The first thing I needed to do was to assemble the basic structure of the figure. Taking segments one by one, I started the assembly process of the actual robot figure. After pasting a segment of chrome onto our frog, we need to shape it. Using the Transform - Distort Tool, I transformed and skewed the segment in order to fit the contours of the frog's head. Making sure to always follow the curves and contours of the frog in order to help keep the familiar recognizable shape of the original frog.


Now we need to cover more space using the same basic idea. By selecting basic segments from our chrome sources and free transforming them to fit the shape of our frog. Select segments of your mechanical parts that best resemble the area of the frog you're trying to cover. It may help you to start by applying the pieces furthest most from the camera first, then overlap pieces as you come closer and closer to the camera. At this point i'm not worried about covering the background or overlapping any of the original frog, as we can go back and add them in again later. For now I just want to lay down the basic structure of the figure.

 
In order to create the mouth area, I needed to do something slightly different. I found a chrome pipe area on one of our chrome source pictures. I decided to use this segment for the mouth, as it was a nice long piece of chrome that I could transform into the shape of the mouth. I copied and pasted this segment onto our frog and Free Transformed it roughly in place until I was happy enough with the positioning of it. I also added this segment onto the head of our figure to create a median point on the figure.


Next, all I had to do was fine tune and clean up the pieces to sit right on our figure. I did this simply by using the Smudge Tool set at 70-80% in strength, and about 7-10 pixels wide. Then I proceeded to smudge and smooth out the surfaces of the chrome pipe and mold them to fit the curves and contours of the frog's original mouth.

 
When I'm satisfied with the positioning of all the mechanical pieces, the next step was to apply some highlights and shadows to separate the segments a little better. I started with the shadows. Using the Brush Tool set at 100% opacity, I painted in the black shadows on a new layer directly underneath each chrome segment layer. Next, I took the Smudge Tool set at 60-70% pressure and smoothed out the shadows. Following the contours of the underlying pieces, I shaped the shadows. The shadows should give our figure more depth and help to isolate each segment a little better


Next, in order to further accentuate the shadows, we're going to add some simple highlights. Again by using the Brush Tool (this time set to white) set at 100% opacity, I painted in some basic highlights on the edges and areas I figured could use a little further bump in contrast on a new layer directly above each piece of our chrome layers.

Then just like the shadows, I then took the Smudge Tool set at 60-70% pressure to smooth and shape out our highlights to fit the curves of our figure.
 
You may still notice some remnants of the original frog showing on the edges of the figure. This can be easily cleaned up with a little work using the Clone Tool. At this point, it'll be a good idea to hide all our layers except for our background layer. Create a new layer directly above your original frog image. With the Clone Tool selected, make sure you have the "select all layers" box selected. Hold the "alt" key and select an arbitrary area of the background to copy. Then it's all a matter of cloning the background in.

 
In order to make the image look even more interesting, I decided to create the illusion of the frog's skin being pulled away to reveal the robot. On a new layer above our background, I roughly painted the insides of the opened skin. Using the Brush Tool set at 100% opacity set to a brown, skin-toned color, I mapped out the area our skin would cover


Next, I wanted to give the skin some shadow. Selecting a darker shade of our original skin color, I roughly painted in the shadows. Then, using the Smudge Tool set at 60-70% pressure, I smoothed out the shadows just (as in Step 07) until I was happy with the general placement and shape of the skin

 
I then wanted to add some of the original skin from the frog to form the outside of the skin as well. I opened the original frog image in a new File for easy access. Using the Lasso Tool, I selected edges of the frog's original skin to copy. I copied this selection and pasted it on to our robofrog document. Using the Transfrom-Distort Tool, I transformed the skin to follow the direction of the skin "pull". And like we did in our earlier steps, I proceeded to add slight shadows and highlights to the skin to further accentuate the "pull" effect.

 
For the skin flaps on the arms, I did something different. First I selected the original arm and copied it onto a new layer. Then using the Smudge Tool set at 80-90% pressure, I smudged and drew in the direction of the skin and folds of the skin. Then, using darker and lighter shades from the original skin, I drew and smudged in shadows and highlights again as in the previous steps


When I was happy with the look of the skin, the next step was to go back and return some of the orginal rough skin texture from the original skin. I did this by copying an area of the original frog skin and pasting it on a new layer directly on top of our Arm Skin layer.

I then set this layer with the "overlay" Blend mode. This gives our skin the rough texture. I then erased the edges of the overlay skin layer so as it covers only the necessary areas
 
Next, I wanted to make the chrome look even more like chrome. By adding reflections from surrounding elements, I hope to add some more realism to the chrome. I did this by copying layers of surrounding elements and forming them to create an illusion of reflection.

For example, as in the image above, I started by Duplicating the layer with the metal valve. I then set the opacity of this layer to 50% then using the Transform-Distort Tool, I shaped and formed the element to fit onto the shoulder chrome segment. I used this same method for other surrounding areas like the leaf and areas where the skin overlaps a chrome segment.
Finally, I needed something to hold up the frog's skin. I decided to use a couple of dragonflies for this effect. After finding a good image of a dragonfly, it was then all a matter of extracting him from the original file and pasting him onto a new layer in our working document.

I added the Motion Blue filter to the winged areas of the dragonflies to simulate motion.


And voila! Our image is complete! A robotic frog created using only the very basic tools of photoshop!

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membuat tatto real di photoshop

We'll use my recent Geri Halliwell image as the template for this tutorial. Bikini clad, light skinned people are the easiest to make this rather simple but very effective bodyart.


The source artwork I use for tattoos is the "flash" artwork that real tattoo artists design and use as a templates for their work. Walk into most tattoo parlours and hanging on the wall or in their design books you'll see a huge selection of artwork you might want to have a tattoo of.

So just Google Image Search with the keywords tattoo + flash and you'll find ample sources to use. Be sure to use an image that is public domain (or ask the author first). It's possible to cut and paste tattoos off the body or image of a person and use different blending methods to achieve a similar effect, but it is very time consuming and much more difficult to get good results. For Geri's arms, legs and torso I used just 3 pieces of flash artwork.




Let's start with Geri's abdomen and the skulls artwork, just drag the image over her abdomen and apply a mask to the skulls layer. Using the Move tool roughly place the artwork where you want it to sit, using the Transform option stretch/perspective, etc. to get better placement. Mask out the areas where you have any overlap, return to the Move tool if need be and Transform it to your liking using its different settings, I ended up with this. Some people have used displacement maps to align tattoos, not once have I required them.



All you have to do next is click on the image thumbnail in the layers palette and alter the blend mode from Normal to Multiply. Simple as pie! because most flash artwork is on a white background selecting Multiply will cause the white background to instantly disappear,leaving you with the coloured or in this case black artwork blended to Geri's abdomen. Tattos are never a solid black so tweaking the layers, colour balance and lowering the opacity makes for a very realistic effect.


The same process was used on Geri's arms and legs. a single piece of flash artwork was duplicated and used on 4 or 5 layers, masking, resizing and using the Multiply on each layer. Because the arms and legs had the same pattern I just placed the lower arm and the upper arm layer over the top of each other and masked out any overlap creating a smooth pattern.

The image below shows the 3 layers used with some masking and a pretty good flowing pattern was achieved. Seems a little messy but remember once the Multiply blend is applied all the white instantly disappears.


For Geri's shoulders and chest area, again a repeat of the previous process, just a different piece or artwork was used and it was duplicated onto 2 layers, then one was horizontally flipped for left and right.

For some body parts you might consider using the liquify tool in moderation if the Move/Transform/ Distort option is not achieving the desired "fit". I also mask certain areas with a low opacity brush to achieve a feathered smooth flowing ink effect. You wouldn't want a solid colour to apply to areas in a body cavity or around the edge of a shoulder.


Finally, for coloured tattoos pretty much the same techniques are used as for black ink work. A little extra work is involved adjusting the opacity of the layer to get that blurred well worn effect, you don't want too vibrant a colour or you will not get that see-through ink applied to skin look. I sometimes use Adjustment layers and the Replace Colour option to lessen a red or to make a green more vibrant.

So basically there you have it, there is nothing too difficult to creating bodyart.

1. Use "flash" source images
2. Use Multiply for your layers
3. Use the Transform option to position and distort the tattoo.
4. Be a little creative and play with the colour and opacity settings.


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